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Keeping Goats

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Feeding Goat

Felicity Stockwell explains what is necessary for keeping goats on a small-scale.

See also:

Keeping Sheep
Fostering a Donkey
Companion Animals on the Home Farm

 

 

 

If you have a small plot of land or a largish garden there is no doubt that having your own dairy goat is one of the most useful animals you can acquire in a bid for self-sufficiency.

She will provide you with a supply of fresh, sweet milk (nothing like the stuff you will buy in the supermarket), cheeses, yoghurt and butter. Her kids will provide you with additional income when you sell them, or meat for the freezer. She will take care of many of the trimmings from non-poisonous shrubs and weeds and devour all of your vegetable trimmings, ‘over the sell-by date’ bananas (yes, goats love them!), stale bread and biscuits – you name it. In fact anything that is fruit–, vegetable– or grain-based, as long as it doesn’t contain animal by-products. However, it is a myth that goats eat everything, so in order for you to reap the benefits of the gentle soul you will only get back what you put in, so you must budget for the food required and make sure that she has regular meal times of the right type of food.

WHAT DO I NEED?

Essentially, a pen that is no less than 6ft x 4ft and an area of grass or a small concreted yard area for exercise.

The pen can be created within another building but the goat should be able to see outside, as they are inquisitive and sensitive animals. It should be draught free and weatherproof.

My own goats live outside in a large paddock with a pony field shelter for protection, but it is perfectly possible to keep a goat in your back garden with proper care.

If you have ponies by the way and get a goat or two, allow time for the animals to adjust to one another before letting them out together. Goats are quick movers but not as quick as ponies and a swift kick from a pony will dispatch your goat without a doubt. My three Exmoor ponies live cheek by jowl with my goats, but when I recently introduced two new ones I had to exercise caution for a couple of weeks until a mutual respect was established between new goats and old goats and new goats and ponies. Common sense prevails here.

Assuming that your goats are a lone species on your holding or garden, any exercise or turn-out area must be properly fenced, as goats are escape artists and will quickly destroy your veggie patch and worse still poison themselves on garden shrubs if they get out. The fence (small gauge stock netting suitable for sheep or horses) needs to be between 3ft and 4ft high, have strong posts and perhaps a rail on top. A gate, which can be a hand gate, also needs to be strong enough for the goat to put its front feet on. They have a tendency to elevate themselves to be nosy and see what’s going on!

You will also need a small hay rack, which you can make yourself (don’t use a haynet as goats can get their feet caught in them), or purchase feeding bowls and a small water bucket held by a bucket holder.

It’s best to have the bucket holder at chest height to the goat, not on the floor. The bucket can get knocked over and also get droppings in it. Goats will never, ever, drink dirty water.

HOW MANY?

Years ago, when virtually every other homestead in rural Britain had a goat, you would frequently see goats tethered in gardens and on the wayside. The goat was usually a solitary animal and nobody worried about it.

TIMES HAVE CHANGED! As we all know, and not always for the better, but in the case of the goat, much research and let’s face it, common sense, has told us that they are a herd animal and as such are distressed by solitary living. So, if at all possible do please try to keep more than one. It makes sense to have two of the same type, e.g. dairy goats, together.

goat grazing

It is also no longer possible to tether or lead a goat out to graze. Animal movement regulations prevent you from casually strolling about off your holding with your goat on a lead. This is basically to protect the health of what is known as the National Flock. That’s all the farm animals in the UK. It theoretically prevents the possible spread of disease from farm to farm.

With regard to tethering, this is never a very good idea and in some circumstances can be illegal. Goats should not be left tethered and unattended on your own land as they can injure or strangle themselves, and it is illegal to tether on land that is not part of your holding.

WHEN AND WHERE DO I GET SOME GOATS?

These days there are fewer and fewer goat keepers in the UK (and we need to change that don’t we – otherwise all goats will become an endangered species), and not just keepers of the rarer varieties such as Bagot goats and Golden Guernseys.

The best place to start looking for a good dairy goat is by going on the British Goat Society website: www.allgoats.com, and www.allgoats.org.uk. There you will find a variety of breeders advertising stock. There will also be links to local goat groups in your area where contact with the secretary will usually help you to find what you are looking for.

If you can join a local goat society so much the better, because it will give you a chance to see other people’s goats and a chance to get to know someone who can help you through at the beginning. Goat keeping is not rocket science but it helps if you can find someone not too far away who has goats who will be happy to answer your questions.

RULES AND REGULATIONS

Like all things today, there are rules and regulations. I hear you groan. Don’t worry, it’s not difficult, although some would have you think otherwise.

Goats, regardless of breed or use are agricultural animals and as such are subject to the same regulations as sheep, cows, pigs and so on.

If you already have another agricultural animal you will have a Holding Number (CPH) – this stands for County Parish Holding Number.

Even if you are keeping your goat(s) in a back garden you must still have one. No one asks how much land you’ve got!

This CPH can be applied for by going to the Rural Payments Agency website and following the links. It normally takes about ten days to obtain a CPH number, and until you have that you cannot legally move a goat onto your premises. There is a slight variation on this if you are keeping Pygmy goats, as they are considered to be companion animals, and it is possible to arrange a CPH from the Rural Payments Agency over the phone without any documentation being completed or signed by you. This is a fairly new derogation and is explained fully on the Rural Payments or Defra website: www.defra.gov.uk/foodfarm/farmanimal/movements/goats/index.htm. Or call the Defra Helpline on: 08459 335577.

You will also need a Herd Number. This is a follow-on to the information you will find on the website above. This number will start with UK******, and this will be your unique ID for any goats you may breed in the future. It will always be your flock or herd number even if you move areas and have a different CPH number. The goats you buy will have ear tags that display the herd number of their holding of birth. This tag must always remain on that animal but they will still form part of your herd.

The goats you buy will already be tagged with one or two ear tags, depending on the age of the goat.

They will arrive from the seller or be collected by you and have a set of Movement Documents with them. There will be clear instructions at the bottom of the page as to what you must do with these documents once the goats are at your home or ‘holding’.

As with all rules and regulations they are very much a ‘blanket’ thing and written for the commercial farmer as well as the hobby keeper. The key is to read it all and highlight the bits that really apply to you. You will be surprised how small the regulations become!

When you are allocated your CPH number and flock/herd number you will also be given a Holding Register, which is totally self explanatory and has various pages for you to fill in movements of animals on and off your holding. This is all part of the traceability of food and animals, and although it may seem a lot of trouble initially, you soon get used to it and it becomes a reference for you as well as complying with the necessary legal requirements of livestock keeping, regardless of whether you have a back garden or fifty acres.

FOOD, WATER AND DAILY CARE

Goats eat many things as we have already observed, but ideally they need to be fed in the same way, with minor variations, every day to avoid gastric upsets.

The most important thing for a goat is long fibre. Hay, straw, haylage and long grass will all provide this.

Your goat will need at least 2.5kg of long fibre a day. If this is in the form of long grass then it needs to be 7kg a day to take into account the water content.

She will also need some concentrates. For a first-time goat keeper the best thing is to buy a proprietary goat mix from your feed supplier or agricultural merchant. Do not use concentrates intended for other species, such as horses.

three goats graze near high buildings in city

The exception to this is that you can also offer Alpha A if you wish or something like Readigrass. Both of these forages are quite expensive so a little time spent picking grass and other foliage eliminates the need for this. I go ‘branching’ for my goats once a day. Basically, trimming small branches off overhanging deciduous trees for them to eat. They will usually eat the branches as well, or at the very least, the bark. Be mindful of whose tree it is! Do not feed plum or cherry branches.

If you are fortunate enough to have proper grazing, a goat needs the sward to be between 2cm and 4cm in length, as a minimum requirement.

Unless the grazing is exceptionally good, you will need to supplement with concentrates according to manufacturer’s instructions for the species of goat and its dietary needs, depending on whether it is in kid, lactating etc.

Clean water is vital. Change it at least once a day, twice if you can. Warm water is particularly enjoyed. Some keepers add a teaspoonful of salt to the water but personally I prefer to hang a goat-specific vitamin and mineral block in the shelter or stall. Again, these can be purchased from your agricultural merchant or feed store.

So, these are the basics, and obviously anything that comes out of your garden that is not poisonous is great for goats too.

It is very important that you familiarise yourself with poisonous plants for livestock, a poisoned goat is a sad sight and they very rarely recovers.

Clean the pen daily if your goat is indoors all of the time. You can deep litter with straw or shavings for a week if time is short, but always make sure the bed is dry and clean to avoid taints in milk and offending the neighbours!

Add the cleanings out to your compost. The wet bits will act as an accelerator to your compost, and the droppings will build up the nitrogen content of the finished product.

 

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